The Forgotten Pathway: St Andrew's Church, Winterborne Tomson

An easy 30 minute drive from Knowlton Church brought me to my second destination, St Andrew’s Church, just off the A31 on Marsh Lane in Winterborne Tomson, Dorset.

This was a church I was very excited about. Although it was built during the Norman period you will see it is nothing like those in my pervious posts. It is a sweet, light and beautiful little church with a chapel’s charm.

I always look for places that are unusual and St Andrew’s definitely fits the bill nicely. It is a Norman church built in the 12^th century and has two distinct attributes that make it stand out from the rest. First it has an apse – in this case a semi-circular sanctuary and the other is a wagon ceiling which is the only one in Dorset, they are most common to Devon and Cornwall churches. There is one more surprise which I will leave for you to read about later.

At first when I turned onto the narrow road I thought the satnav had got it really wrong and had me driving down someone’s driveway. I nearly turned around when out of the corner of my I spotted the church up ahead. Going a little further there is a small parking area on the left just as the road ends at a farmyard.

It was love at first sight.

Simple in design from the graceful curve of the stone walls to the weatherboard bell tower.

Usually I spend time walking around the outside of buildings first but I really wanted to get inside to have a look at that ceiling.

The oak paneled door dotted from top to bottom with iron studs swung open easily revealing a bright and airy interior. Most medieval churches' pews and fixtures are dark and heavy.

My eyes immediately went to the ‘wagon’ ceiling.

As I looked more closely each intersection was masked by individually decorated bosses. Each section of oak had to be fitted precisely to fit the curve of the ceiling and the apse. The run the length and breadth of the entire church.

Unfortunately, as often happens in ancient buildings, there are places where the damp has seeped through the plaster and other damaged to both the ribs and bosses.

Boxpews take the place of the usual front facing in most churches and this coupled with the large windows, reminded me of the colonial Congregational churches back home in Connecticut.

The pews line both sides of a single aisle and with the largest just under the pulpit. This would have been where the most prominent family would sit. At the back, the gallery would have been where anyone who could not rent a pew would have to stand during the service.

The pews are carved from oak with a lime wash finish. Simple latches hold the doors to each closed.

Wanting to get a parishioner’s view I sat inside one and looked around. Very hard, straight backed seats with a cold stone floor. I was uncomfortable in moments. I couldn’t help thinking how church services went on for hours back then. Pity the poor parishioner whose seat faced the rear of the church, or the side, as they would have spent hours twisting round to see the minister.

At only 40ft long and 15ft across it is a very small church yet it has many unexpected features. I was surprised to find a gallery located just above the entrance. I later read that is actually the original Norman Rood loft. Just beneath it is the bell rope which runs along a series of pulleys and disappears through a hole in the ceiling (I was tempted to give it a try, be decided it was probably not a good idea). Opposite the door tucked up against the pews, is an old wooden organ that is the only highly decorated piece in the church.

On the wall above the organ is a single plaque commemorating the architect who was responsible for the painstaking restoration, Reginald Powys. It also reveals one last secret.
‘…This church greatly loved by Thomas Hardy, was saved from ruin by the sale of certain of his mss [manuscripts] which paid for the work here 1929-1931…’ How wonderful is that!

I walked down the single slate lined aisle finding a memorial stone dedicated to the sad passing of a 10 year old boy. I am always saddened when I see a child’s grave and I wondered how he died.

The craftsman who designed the screen included an archway so that the pastor wouldn’t knock his head on the beam each time he entered or exited the pulpit. I thought this rather ingenious, but wondered if it was done before or after it was installed.

I could not resist climbing the few narrow treads up into the pulpit and standing, as countless ministers once did, to a get the view across the empty pews. In such a small space it would have been impossible for anyone to escape the preacher’s eyes as he delivered his message.

But I had no parish eager to hear my words and made my way down the stairs.

I wandered back out into the sunlight. Standing in the doorway I could see in the distance multiple chimney stacks of a large manor house poking through the tree line. To the left, outside the brick wall, a ‘chocolate box’ thatched cottage completes the perfect English countryside idyll.

The front and sides of the church have plenty of open space but that can not be said about the north side. So far I had not encountered a church that was located literally next to a barn. I did wonder what it must have been like attending services on a hot summer Sunday. (Fortunately for me, a gentle breeze was keeping any fragrence bay).

From this view I could see how the original buttresses almost disappear into the apse. Three later versions were added including one that has filled in a doorway. (The lintel stone at the top and other large stones outline the original opening).

The walls have a lean to them which isn’t evident looking straight on, but when looking down the side, it easy to see.

Local grey and brown stones add warmth to the exterior

The south side of the church has a ‘blind’ window which is Norman and three double windows were added much later.

A weatherboard bell tower adorned with St Andrew’s crosses (for ventilation) sits neatly top orange roof tiles.

Perfect.

It is the little details that make this church so special; nothing over the top, just plain and simple.

I was impressed that such care was taken in the restoration. It is obvious that the interior is a mix of several styles, yet there is no competition amongst the pieces. Instead they blend together beautifully.

From subsequent reading I discovered that it lay unused from 1896 until 1929 when the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings took charge. As the plaque states, money received from the sale of a collection of Hardy’s manuscripts enabled them to 'rescue it from ruin'. The individuals who undertook this project should be applauded. At the time they acquired the property, animals from the adjacent farm had been allowed to roam within the church. I can only imagine the uphill climb they faced when bringing it back from the brink. If churches could have a rags to riches story- St Andrew’s would be it.

In the 1970’s the Churches Conservation Trust [CCT], took over the care of St Andrew. This is a wonderful organization that oversees many ancient churches, big and small, saving them for future generations to enjoy. According to their brochure, St Andrew’s is a consecrated church and there are a few services held here during the year.

Here are some additional photos