St Andrew's Church, Winterborne Tomson

 

 

An easy 30 minute drive from Knowlton Church brought me to my second destination, St Andrew’s Church, just off the A31 on Marsh Lane in Winterborne Tomson, Dorset. 

This was a church I was very excited about. Although it was built during the Norman period you will see it is nothing like those in my pervious posts.  It is a sweet, light and beautiful little church with a chapel’s charm. 

I always look for places that are unusual and St Andrew’s definitely fits the bill nicely.  It is a Norman church built in the 12^th century and has two distinct attributes that make it stand out from the rest. First it has an apse – in this case a semi-circular sanctuary and the other is a wagon ceiling which is the only one in Dorset, they are most common to Devon and Cornwall churches.  There is one more surprise which I will leave for you to read about later.

At first when I turned onto the narrow road I thought the satnav had got it really wrong and had me driving down someone’s driveway. I nearly turned around when out of the corner of my I spotted the church up ahead.  Going a little further there is a small parking area on the left just as the road ends at a farmyard.  

 

                                                                  It was love at first sight. 

Simple in design from the graceful curve of the stone walls to the weatherboard bell tower.

Usually I spend time walking around the outside of buildings first but I really wanted to get inside to have a look at that ceiling.   

The oak paneled door dotted from top to bottom with iron studs swung open easily revealing a bright and airy interior. Most medieval churches' pews and fixtures are dark and heavy.   

 

My eyes immediately went to the ‘wagon’ ceiling.

 

 

As I looked more closely each intersection was masked by individually decorated bosses. Each section of oak had to be fitted precisely to fit the curve of the ceiling and the apse.   The run the length and breadth of the entire church. 

Unfortunately, as often happens in ancient buildings, there are places where the damp has seeped through the plaster and other damaged to both the ribs and bosses.   

 

Boxpews take the place of the usual front facing in most churches and this coupled with the large windows, reminded me of the colonial Congregational churches back home in Connecticut.

The pews line both sides of a single aisle and with the largest just under the pulpit. This would have been where the most prominent family would sit.  At the back, the gallery would have been where anyone who could not rent a pew would have to stand during the service.

 

The pews are carved from oak with a lime wash finish. Simple latches hold the doors to each closed.

Wanting to get a parishioner’s view I sat inside one and looked around.  Very hard,  straight backed seats with a cold stone floor.  I was uncomfortable in moments.  I couldn’t help thinking how church services went on for hours back then. Pity the poor parishioner whose seat faced the rear of the church, or the side, as they would have spent hours twisting round to see the minister.    

 

At only 40ft long and 15ft across it is a very small church yet it has many unexpected features. I was surprised to find a gallery located just above the entrance.  I later read that is actually the original Norman Rood loft.  Just beneath it is the bell rope which runs along a series of pulleys and disappears through a hole in the ceiling (I was tempted to give it a try, be decided it was probably not a good idea).  Opposite the door tucked up against the pews, is an old wooden organ that is the only highly decorated piece in the church.

On the wall above the organ is a single plaque commemorating the architect who was responsible for the painstaking restoration, Reginald Powys.  It also reveals one last secret. 
‘…This church greatly loved by Thomas Hardy, was saved from ruin by the sale of certain of his mss [manuscripts] which paid for the work here 1929-1931…’  How wonderful is that! 

I walked down the single slate lined aisle finding a memorial  stone dedicated to the sad passing of a 10 year old boy.  I am always saddened when I see a child’s grave and I wondered how he died. 

 

The craftsman who designed the screen included an archway so that the pastor wouldn’t knock his head on the beam each time he entered or exited the pulpit. I thought this rather ingenious, but wondered if it was done before or after it was installed.  


 

I could not resist climbing the few narrow treads up into the pulpit and standing, as countless ministers once did, to a get the view across the empty pews.   In such a small space it would have been impossible for anyone to escape the preacher’s eyes as he delivered his message. 

But I had no parish eager to hear my words and made my way down the stairs. 

 

I wandered back out into the sunlight. Standing in the doorway I could see in the distance multiple chimney stacks of a large manor house poking through the tree line. To the left, outside the brick wall, a ‘chocolate box’ thatched cottage completes the perfect English countryside idyll. 

The front and sides of the church have plenty of open space but that can not be said about the north side.  So far I had not encountered a church that was located literally next to a barn. I did wonder what it must have been like attending services on a hot summer Sunday.  (Fortunately for me, a gentle breeze was keeping any fragrence bay). 

From this view I could see how the original buttresses almost disappear into the apse.  Three later versions were added  including one that has filled in a doorway. (The lintel stone at the top and other large stones outline the  original opening). 


The walls have a lean to them which isn’t evident looking straight on, but when looking down the side, it easy to see. 




Local grey and brown stones add warmth to the exterior 

The south side of the church has a ‘blind’ window which is Norman and three double windows were added much later. 

   

 

A weatherboard bell tower adorned with St Andrew’s crosses (for ventilation) sits neatly top orange roof tiles.

Perfect.

It is the little details that make this church so special; nothing over the top, just plain and simple. 

I was impressed that such care was taken in the restoration.  It is obvious that the interior is a mix of several styles, yet there is no competition amongst the pieces. Instead they blend together beautifully. 

From subsequent reading I discovered that it lay unused from 1896 until 1929 when the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings took charge.  As the plaque states, money received from the sale of a collection of Hardy’s manuscripts enabled them to 'rescue it from ruin'.  The individuals who undertook this project should be applauded.  At the time they acquired the property, animals from the adjacent farm had been allowed to roam within the church.  I can only imagine the uphill climb they faced when bringing it back from the brink.  If churches could have a rags to riches story- St Andrew’s would be it.

In the 1970’s the Churches Conservation Trust [CCT], took over the care of St Andrew.  This is a wonderful organization that oversees many ancient churches, big and small, saving them for future generations to enjoy.  According to their brochure, St Andrew’s is a consecrated church and there are a few services held here during the year.

Here are some additional photos

 

 

My time here was over so I took silent moment to take in the view one last time and walked back through the gate to my car.

 

One more church to go.

Hello and welcome back – my apologies for the long absence but it is worth the wait.

June 2014 I spent two weeks roaming my adopted home, England with my wonderful friend Maggie Strutt, whose hospitality, friendship and grasp of logistics made another adventure possible.  Without her none of this would have been possible.  I once again thank her, her husband Dave and her two girls – Rebecca and Naomi for another warm welcome. 

I landed in the UK on June 1st and spent my 1^st night in a Travel Lodge not far from Heathrow where I slept reasonably well with the excitement of a child waiting for Christmas.  I love England and as I have mentioned lived there for 14 years never really explored it, much to my embarrassment, until after I moved back to the US.  These two years of holidays in the company of a great friend has showed me so much of that wonderful island I once happily called my home. 

Once again this year I have seen some wonderful scenery and interesting architecture.  Along the way we had some real belly laughs at ourselves, walked a whole lot of miles, and drove even more.  We covered a lot of ground this year, hiking the coasts of Cornwall, Devon and Dorset where we had brilliant sunshine, were drenched by cloudbursts and pelted by hail. We had a ball! The icing on the cake was the drive north to see ASIA in concert in Malvern and Holmfirth taking time to take in the breathtaking scenery that is so different from the south and southwest coasts. 

Travel is about enjoying the moment, the company and soaking it all up.  Everywhere we go we can find something special, whether it is in your own backyard – as I have also been rediscovering- or taking the time to explore further.  From architecture to culture to landscapes beautiful things are there to see and experience.  It will change you.  It will grab you.  It will make you think. 

As with last year’s travels I will be giving my thoughts about the places I have seen.  I offer a little historical background but mostly I want to share my experiences in the hope that it inspires you to see them on your own or to find those that intrigue you.

The walking this year was more rigorous but well worth it. 

Maggie and I start the process with lists – long lists- of places that interest us.  We Google them, find them in websites such as the Churches Conservation Trust (CCT) and English Heritage.  Ideas come also from Maggie’s arsenal of walks planned in detail using the incredible Ordnance Survey maps.  I also get input from friends who have visited or know of interesting places.  At one point I hand them over to Maggie and she does an amazing job of creating a workable itinerary.  It is not an easy task I give her but pulls it all together and enables us to visit the amazing places and I can photograph to my heart’s content. 

When things are this well planned it allows room for movement where changes that can be done ‘on the fly’.  By building in extra time this year it really paid off.  We had enough time to stop and explore several ‘bonus’ churches this year that I spotted as we were driving.   These extra churches, as it happened, were real gems.  

This is how I holiday.  I don’t like to be rushed and pulled from pillar to post.  I want to see the places I visit… really see them, not just have photos to jog my memory later.  After all, we wait all year for this time of own; in my case I would hate to feel I need a ‘holiday after my holiday’. 

And with all this said the entries for the June 2014 trip is longer due to the number of sites I wish to share with you.  I hope that you enjoy it.

Debb

Here we go:

A few opening notes

A FEW NOTES FIRST:

When we were in the planning stages this year it became obvious that using Maggie's home as a 'base camp' was not going to work due to the amount of travel time that would be needed to see all the sites we had in mind.  Maggie suggested camping and I immediately loved the idea.  We stayed at two very different campgrounds the location of both allowed us to extend our exploration without cutting into the time we wanted to spend at the sites.  It was a great decision as a cheap and cheerful alternative to hotels.  We had a great tent, which you will see in later posts, which was very easy to put up and take down.  It was also a wonderful to return after a long day hiking in the fresh air to come back and sit in a comfy chair, sipping tea, and enjoying the beautiful scenery around us. I realize it is not everyone's idea of fun but it is something to think about. Campsites can get you closer to nature and sometimes closer to the best views!  We also stayed in two B&B's up north and I stayed in a Travelodge and accommodation at a University in Hampshire. 

As I have already mentioned, I arrived in the evening at Heathrow on June 1^st and picked up the shuttle from Terminal 5 to a Travelodge about a 15 minute shuttle ride away.  It was very busy but efficient and I was in my room quickly.  Travelodge’s are not meant to be luxurious, which was perfect since all I needed was a place to settle, have a hot shower and collapse in bed.  I woke early as planned, checked out and grabbed a shuttle to Avis for my car.

The process at Avis was smooth as always. I had reserved online a medium size hatchback, (not too big not too small), and soon had set up the satnav on my mobile and headed down the M25 toward Winchester. I decided to stay there for two reasons; First - I needed to kill a day before I met up with Maggie and wanted somewhere familiar and Second - it gave me an opportunity to meet up with a my friend, Alan Dorey, a local DJ whose show, 'The Musical Box', airs on Forest FM. It is always pleasant to spend time with friends especially when you are traveling alone.  Nothing beats a perfect cup of tea and cake after a long journey.  We had a lovely long visit and before I knew it time had flown. We said our goodbye’s and I returned to my room.  I had arranged a room on the King Alfred campus of Winchester University for one night and was very pleased with my little room.   The room was very clean, had a kettle with tea and biscuits waiting and was in a nice quiet building.  I had stayed there in 2013 for a conference and was glad I remembered they offered this service.  They get 5+ stars in my book for value and convenience. The University has limited accommodation available to the public during the summer break.  It is inexpensive and definitely worth keeping in mind when looking for a place to stay.

After a very restful night I was on the road by 7:30a to avoid the traffic of Winchester and to catch as much of the morning light as I could.  I was on a mission to get to three churches before I had to make my arrival time at Maggie’s home near Plymouth, in Devon, which was several hours away.  The satnav set, map ready, mp3 player plugged in, music on and sunglasses in place - I was off on my adventure:

South again to Knowlton Church in the county of Dorset 

 

 

                                           KNOWLTON CHURCH AND HENGE

Located on Lumber Lane off the B3078 in Cranborne, Dorset, the site is just a short drive up on the right.  Access is gained through an old gate at the west side of the site.  You walk through the henge (Neolithic earthworks that form a ring which pre-dates the church by several thousand years).  The surrounding landscape is grass and I loved how wildflowers are allowed to bloom naturally on the ring which adds a softness to the church.  As to the weather , well not every day is a bright blue sky in England, and this day was no exception; A steel grey sky and the occasional spot of rain.

Example of the layout of a Norman Church

 
 

I started with my usual ‘survey’ and made my way about halfway around so that I was facing the south side of the church.  It amazing how much is still intact. Most of the walls are still standing and you can clearly see that different generations have left their marks.  The most obvious is the much later addition of the bell tower.

The design is Norman and the walls make it easy to make out original layout of the church, and their use of rounded arch doorways and flint in the construction.  The roofline is visible on the bell tower's east wall, the tower itself is attached to the Nave and to the right, through an archway is the North Aisle. Looking back from the bell tower through another arch, is the Chancel and to it's left, the North Chapel. I think that there might have been a porch just outside the Nave at one time as well. The bell tower has survived the best with the only damage at the very top.





inside the bell tower

Nothing remains of any rafters except the holes that once
supported their weight, which are now filled with grass and flowers.   

Rounded Norman arches

Standing within the walls and looking around I found myself daydreaming about what it looked like a very long time ago, and wondering who the people were who spent hours here in humble worship.  It is not very spacious, and being the only parish church for miles, it must have been very crowded. Norman churches had very little light, and what few windows that might have existed would have been little more slits so on a grey day like today it must have been very dark and gloomy. Even candlelight would have been unable to cast any large amount of light across the parishioners.

Faint traces of designs

Looking carefully I found traces of the old master artists hand in faint images of a leaf motif on one of the walls. 











There is a resolute solitude that weighs heavy in the air like a feeling of expectation.  Perhaps because it is a church an atmosphere of the past still lingers amongst it's stones. I felt comforted by this feeling and spent quite a long time roaming around, peering up the high walls, into little holes, and touching the now rough and weathered surfaces.

  

View from North Aisle thru to Nave

 

 

The church was abandoned after the village went into decline (and eventually disappeared altogether) and has been sitting empty ever since;  it's only companions the yew trees and the barrow. 

I wandered out of the church and to the east where two massive yew trees sit just beyond the crest of the henge. I thought they might have marked an entry way at one time since the ring opens there as it does in front of the bell tower. Their canopy seemed to invite me to have a closer look so I strolled up the embankment to see what was on the other side.

I was not prepared for what I found...

Strung amongst the branches were hundreds of small memorial tributes left by many different people of diverse ages and cultures.  Among them were prayers for departed loved ones, poems, a flint heart, a child’s toy, letters and words of comfort. In a way I felt like an intruder, but at the same time compelled to read them each in turn.  In the silence of this place it was a very  moving. Later when I was writing in my diary I had found it very hard to describe the emotions I experienced under those very old trees.

(Out of respect I took only a few photos and then moved on).  

 

After taking the next series of the shots I lay on the grass sipping a cup of tea just enjoying the moment. It was nice to take time to watch the clouds move across the sky, the shadows and light reflecting on these ancient stones.  After three days of nothing but the noise of airports, hotels, driving and jetlag kicking in it was nice to finally stop, really stop. 

What a spectacular way to start my holiday, sitting in a henge  thousands of years old staring at an 900 year old church!

View of the church flanked by the yew trees on the left and the barrow on the right

View from the ring



View from 'porch' through the arch to the nave

window in top of bell tower from inside
 

 

new arch construction that creates the entrance to the bell tower

 

View of the yew trees from inside the ring

View of the barrow from inside the ring

View standing inside the ring

 

View from the chancel side

Norman arched doorway from nave to what might have been a porch outside

window

View up the bell tower

Standing in the bell tower and looking back to the chancel

Another window

Looking from the chancel arch into the bell tower, the arch on the right opens to the north aisle.
You can see the different arch styles very clearly here.
 

I did not explore the barrow which is a short distance outside the ring.  When I arrived I was the only one there however, at some point a group of people had arrived from across the field and were wandering around. I decided to leave it for another visit. 

Besides, looking at my watch I saw that I had spent a very pleasant 2 or more hours meandering and daydreaming so it was time to head down the road.

I had two more churches to explore.