Burgh Island, Devon 26 June 2013

 

Coming from New England I am used to wide open highways and two lane roads.  In Britain however, this is not always the case.  In fact, a good many roads that lead to the most interesting places are lined with hedgerows that you can not see over and pull over spots to allow cars to squeeze past each other on narrow lanes.  It is all part of the adventure and charm of the countryside.  Driving these roads is not for the faint of heart, but you do not have to be afraid of them either.  Most British drivers are not aggressive and the rules of the road are politely recognized.  

The only road to Bigbury-on-Sea is just such a road which aside from being very narrow in places, it also drops steeply down to the coast.  At the end is a large car park with pay/display meters, a little shop that has the usual souvenirs and beach items.  Across the parking lot a little café offers great bacon rolls (and many other tempting items), tea and picnic tables so you can enjoy the view.

Burgh Island is just to your right as you look out into the bay and you can not miss the ‘Burgh Island’ hotel made famous in movies such as Agatha Christie’s ‘Evil Under the Sun’, from the novel of the same name which Agatha
wrote while a guest back in the 1930’s.  She, along with many other celebrities, spent long holidays here enjoying the views and numerous parties the hotel has offered over its long presence.  The first weekend hangout for celebrity party goers was a prefab house built back in the 1890’s, by entertainer George Chigwin. Later in the 1930's,  filmmaker and engineering heir,  Archibald Nettlefold, built the stunning Art Deco hotel we see today.  

This is not the only landmark on this 28 or so acre island.  There is some mention of a 14^th century monastery, which once stood  where the hotel now sits and The Pilchard Inn, built around the same time may have been a hostelry for its visitors.  The only possible remains of the monastery are believed to be a ‘chapel’ which sits like a crown on the top of the island.

Island is a deceptive description as it is actually a ‘temporary island’, which at low tide you can walk across the beach causeway.  When it is surrounded by water visitors can take a nostalgic ride on the tractor which literally drives across the bay’s currents and up to the Inn. 

A footpath located to the left of the Inn winds past the hustle and bustle of the pub to where the shoreline of Bigbury stretches before you.  Follow the path to the far side of the island and you find steep cliffs where noisy seabirds are nesting and hanging on the sea breezes.

Burgh Island is surrounded by jagged rocks softened by grass and wildflowers.  It is worth getting a closer view of the different species that are growing there, but be very careful of the sandy ledges which are soft in places and could give way.  

 

Continuing around and upward, the path finally brings you to the top of the island for a spectacular panoramic view.  In the centre is a roofless shell.  This is the remains of the monk’s chapel.  This  became a ‘huer’ hut where a spotter would be on the lookout for pilchard schools, and from this observation post would give the ‘hue and cry’ alerting the fishing fleet to an impending catch. Standing within the ruin you would have a commanding view of any activity along the coast whether you were looking for fish or sailing vessels.

The hut is rough stone with lintels above the door and window openings.  Along one wall you can see where a small fireplace once provided warmth and light on many cold, damp nights and foggy days.  It is not a large space, probably enough room for a small table and a bed.  Just enough to afford shelter against the elements while keeping a silent vigil or watch out to sea.

There are many footpaths allowing access to some of the outlying rocks which are very tempting but I myself did not feel brave enough to venture down.  Looking carefully over the edges I found that some drop directly into inviting deep green/blue pools while others had rock covered bottoms or sandy beaches. Perfect for an intimate rendezvous (as one might find in a novel).  
Crossing the top you take the path that leads down a very steep ‘staircase’ which was easier to bypass by walking next to, instead of on, the treads.  This will bring you back to the hotel whose formidable (but inviting) gate remains firmly closed to the public.  The hotel itself is just a short distance away and you can see its graceful outline of white plaster and soft green pastel trim tucked up on the side of the hill.

 

It easy to see how the rock ledges and steep footpaths could fire the imagination of writers, making it the perfect setting for treachery and intrigue; the unsuspecting victim stands on the edge, one slip and it's all over. No one would know and with so many hiding places in the coves below how would they ever hope to find the villain? 

Ah yes, all that and a glorious view of the English coast.

Of course novelists are not the only people inspired by this little island. I found local singer/songwriter Ben Howard who’s song ‘Burgh Island’ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqULZjSYo5w&feature=kp ) came from fond memories of summers spent surfing Burgh Island's waters. (I have included a link to his website on the music page please feel free to discover his music along with others that I have enjoyed on my journeys).   

                                                                    
I enjoyed walking around in the breezes of Burgh Island. It has a wonderful relaxed feel about it as any seaside.  You can let your mind wander.  This day was sunny and warm to start and just about the time I reached the summit a strange sea fog had begun to roll into the bay enveloping the coastline. 

End note:
While I have offered a few bits of historical information, I apologize that I have do not have a lot to give you on this island.  I am limited to online research from here in the States in some cases and when travelling I do not always immerse myself in all things technical.  I go to places because I want to experience them, not to do a full research study.  That is the beauty of travelling. Sometimes you want to dig into the history, sometimes it’s nice to relax and take it all in so it stays in your memory.   I mix my travel between these two things, enjoying the moment and finding out more.  You travel for what interests you. I have useful links on other pages of this blog that you may find helpful and informative.  If you have any you would like to share please let me know.

Next: Dartmoor ponies, an amazing quarry complete with ruin, and standing stones...