Foggintor Quarry, 27 June 2013

Foggintor, Tram road, Manager's house and Quarry.

 

Foggintor is a nice easy walk which along the way offers some spectacular views .  You don’t realize this as you leave the car park in Princetown, Devon where there are several cafes and stores to browse around.   

The path that leads you from the village winds past a farm where curious ponies stare perhaps in the hope of scratch on the forehead from a friendly stranger.  A slow gentle grade takes you out into the wide open spaces of Dartmoor itself.  The track is actually the bed of a tramroad built in 1823 by Thomas Tyrwill which sadly closed in1956.  This particular stretch once carried stone from the nearby quarry to Plymouth and beyond.  Once a busy and bustling area one could image the quarrymen and their families going about their day to day lives, but now it is a place of quiet solitude with only the breezes and wild ponies for your companions.  The views from the tram road are stunning, opening the valley up beneath where you can see for miles in every direction the road itself disappearing into the horizon. 

 

But I was not going that way.  I was following the path around to the right and working my way to Foggintor Quarry a short distance away. 
 

Rounding a bend you can see the ruins of the quarry master’s house in the distance, a once very imposing and grand home, with only one wall remaining upright. As you approach you see the remains of other buildings which I later read had been a school, office and chapel.  

 

Amongst the remains is a grove of beautiful trees whose branches have been misshapen over the years by the winds.  They have grown up amongst the cut stones of the house now scattered like children’s marbles.  Wildflowers and tall grass cover the area adding colour to the grey background of the stone walls and occasionally a sheep wanders in and watches as you explore. 

 

The remains are well worth an "up close" investigation. The perspectives of the landscape changes as you  stand within the doorstep and look out onto the moor. 




It is a breathtaking view with a white farmhouse in the distance and the rolling hills that fade into the distance.

 

The windows act as picture frames capturing small glimpses of what is beyond.

 

Sitting on the sill of one of the windows you can look down into the area where the other buildings once stood and get a feel for how big these structures once were.

I spent a long time wandering around the ruins and walking away from them to turn and look back.  In it’s day this must have been a formidable sight for workers and visitors.  The structure was at least two stories in height from the front but when you look at it from the back you can clearly see that a doorway was once located under the house. 

Fitting for the home of a man who ran the quarry and the lives of those who once worked for him.

 

 

The moor is slowly claiming back the rocks that once made up this building making it hard in places to distinguish between the real landscape and the man made.

 Leaving the house behind I headed for the quarry itself, which once was Foggintor, now a water filled canyon.  There are two paths, one leads into the quarry and the other rises steeply toward to the top which is the one I took. Standing on the edge looked down into its basin.

The water below in a lovely green from the minerals and you can see unfinished cuts of rocks under the surface.



From this vantage point you get a real sense as to how vast this quarry is, a quarry whose stone forms most of Nelson’s column in London and many buildings in Devon. From here too, you can have an incredible view beyond the quarry which I believe is toward the west (on this year’s travels I intend to carry a small compass and will endeavor to make a note of directions when I can).  Hard to believe such a massive hole in the ground could exist in this place, perhaps a blight on the landscape from the hands of man and yet if they hadn’t quarried here, we would not have this unique view of the moor. 

 

This area is used for many recreational activities.  In fact there were several groups arriving to take advantage of the water, ledges and nature.  A group of army cadets had spent the night on the moor, an outdoor adventure group with climbing gear were preparing to abseil from the cliff tops and some school children were out on a nature and history exploration day.  As you can see even with all these people around there is plenty of room to find space to be alone and enjoy the beauty that surrounds you here.
 

One last look out into the quarry and moor beyond and I rejoined the footpath that leads back to car park back along the tram road which still has granite sleepers from the time when horse drawn wagons pulled heavy stone down to Plymouth.  This was long before the age of steam trains, an era which does not seem to factor in railway history and should, as it is the precursor of the modern day rail system. 

 

The Princetown Railway Bridge, unseen on the way to the quarry, is now in view. It too is made from local stone, now rusty brown colour with age. This tramroad was used to connect the quarry to the Plymouth and Dartmoor Railway.

Walkers are not the only ones who may enjoy this area, it is a lovely place. As you can see two young women are out for an afternoon ride and although we did not see any, I am sure many cyclists also find this an excellent place for a day out.

It is a very easy walk, mostly level and only if you want to explore the area deeply will you need to use some caution wandering around the master’s house and ruins.  As I mentioned before a lovely place for a picnic.  Very easy to find and enough open space where you aren’t bothered by others who are also there to take in the views and other activities.




Something to be aware of is if you see something in the surrounding grasses that resembles cotton stuck in the wind, this is an indication that the area is wet and could be very soft to walk on.  Just be aware as it would be an unpleasant moment stepping into a boggy section while exploring or taking photos.

 

After spending the early morning here having tea and a biscuit out in the fresh air it was time for lunch.
 

I am not alone on these walks and I suggest that you never go somewhere like this alone.  Good company makes all the difference.  The ‘about’ section of this blog will explain how all this came about and that I have a great planner and travelling companion in my friend Maggie whose family let me borrow her making these expeditions possible.  Maggie is familiar with the area which makes it safer and more enjoyable.  She also knows where all the good places to grab a bite are in addition to the wonderful places we visit.  And on that note, we had lunch at Foxtor Café just a short walk from the car park in Princetown.   

Lunch finished and back on the road we pass Dartmoor prison on our left, you have to see it once in your life even if it is from a distance, on our way to Merrivale.  The prison, buildings and wall were also built using stone from Foggintor quarry.

Keep following me as next time I explore the ancient site of Merrivale. 

Burgh Island, Devon 26 June 2013

 

Coming from New England I am used to wide open highways and two lane roads.  In Britain however, this is not always the case.  In fact, a good many roads that lead to the most interesting places are lined with hedgerows that you can not see over and pull over spots to allow cars to squeeze past each other on narrow lanes.  It is all part of the adventure and charm of the countryside.  Driving these roads is not for the faint of heart, but you do not have to be afraid of them either.  Most British drivers are not aggressive and the rules of the road are politely recognized.  

The only road to Bigbury-on-Sea is just such a road which aside from being very narrow in places, it also drops steeply down to the coast.  At the end is a large car park with pay/display meters, a little shop that has the usual souvenirs and beach items.  Across the parking lot a little café offers great bacon rolls (and many other tempting items), tea and picnic tables so you can enjoy the view.

Burgh Island is just to your right as you look out into the bay and you can not miss the ‘Burgh Island’ hotel made famous in movies such as Agatha Christie’s ‘Evil Under the Sun’, from the novel of the same name which Agatha
wrote while a guest back in the 1930’s.  She, along with many other celebrities, spent long holidays here enjoying the views and numerous parties the hotel has offered over its long presence.  The first weekend hangout for celebrity party goers was a prefab house built back in the 1890’s, by entertainer George Chigwin. Later in the 1930's,  filmmaker and engineering heir,  Archibald Nettlefold, built the stunning Art Deco hotel we see today.  

This is not the only landmark on this 28 or so acre island.  There is some mention of a 14^th century monastery, which once stood  where the hotel now sits and The Pilchard Inn, built around the same time may have been a hostelry for its visitors.  The only possible remains of the monastery are believed to be a ‘chapel’ which sits like a crown on the top of the island.

Island is a deceptive description as it is actually a ‘temporary island’, which at low tide you can walk across the beach causeway.  When it is surrounded by water visitors can take a nostalgic ride on the tractor which literally drives across the bay’s currents and up to the Inn. 

A footpath located to the left of the Inn winds past the hustle and bustle of the pub to where the shoreline of Bigbury stretches before you.  Follow the path to the far side of the island and you find steep cliffs where noisy seabirds are nesting and hanging on the sea breezes.

Burgh Island is surrounded by jagged rocks softened by grass and wildflowers.  It is worth getting a closer view of the different species that are growing there, but be very careful of the sandy ledges which are soft in places and could give way.  

 

Continuing around and upward, the path finally brings you to the top of the island for a spectacular panoramic view.  In the centre is a roofless shell.  This is the remains of the monk’s chapel.  This  became a ‘huer’ hut where a spotter would be on the lookout for pilchard schools, and from this observation post would give the ‘hue and cry’ alerting the fishing fleet to an impending catch. Standing within the ruin you would have a commanding view of any activity along the coast whether you were looking for fish or sailing vessels.

The hut is rough stone with lintels above the door and window openings.  Along one wall you can see where a small fireplace once provided warmth and light on many cold, damp nights and foggy days.  It is not a large space, probably enough room for a small table and a bed.  Just enough to afford shelter against the elements while keeping a silent vigil or watch out to sea.

There are many footpaths allowing access to some of the outlying rocks which are very tempting but I myself did not feel brave enough to venture down.  Looking carefully over the edges I found that some drop directly into inviting deep green/blue pools while others had rock covered bottoms or sandy beaches. Perfect for an intimate rendezvous (as one might find in a novel).  
Crossing the top you take the path that leads down a very steep ‘staircase’ which was easier to bypass by walking next to, instead of on, the treads.  This will bring you back to the hotel whose formidable (but inviting) gate remains firmly closed to the public.  The hotel itself is just a short distance away and you can see its graceful outline of white plaster and soft green pastel trim tucked up on the side of the hill.

 

It easy to see how the rock ledges and steep footpaths could fire the imagination of writers, making it the perfect setting for treachery and intrigue; the unsuspecting victim stands on the edge, one slip and it's all over. No one would know and with so many hiding places in the coves below how would they ever hope to find the villain? 

Ah yes, all that and a glorious view of the English coast.

Of course novelists are not the only people inspired by this little island. I found local singer/songwriter Ben Howard who’s song ‘Burgh Island’ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqULZjSYo5w&feature=kp ) came from fond memories of summers spent surfing Burgh Island's waters. (I have included a link to his website on the music page please feel free to discover his music along with others that I have enjoyed on my journeys).   

                                                                    
I enjoyed walking around in the breezes of Burgh Island. It has a wonderful relaxed feel about it as any seaside.  You can let your mind wander.  This day was sunny and warm to start and just about the time I reached the summit a strange sea fog had begun to roll into the bay enveloping the coastline. 

End note:
While I have offered a few bits of historical information, I apologize that I have do not have a lot to give you on this island.  I am limited to online research from here in the States in some cases and when travelling I do not always immerse myself in all things technical.  I go to places because I want to experience them, not to do a full research study.  That is the beauty of travelling. Sometimes you want to dig into the history, sometimes it’s nice to relax and take it all in so it stays in your memory.   I mix my travel between these two things, enjoying the moment and finding out more.  You travel for what interests you. I have useful links on other pages of this blog that you may find helpful and informative.  If you have any you would like to share please let me know.

Next: Dartmoor ponies, an amazing quarry complete with ruin, and standing stones...

 

 

 

St Peter the Poor Fisherman, Revelstoke, Devon, 26 June 2013

                                      

Sometimes you visit places feigning interest when you are not really into it in spirit.  And then, there are those special places that truly grab you by the heart and stay with you for the rest of your life.  Not all of us will feel the same about a certain place. We each feel in a different way.  For me, St Peter the Poor Fisherman stands out among those very special places.

 

It intrigued me from the moment Maggie sent me a photo of it.  An isolated and abandoned church.  That alone was enough to interest me.  But when I arrived on it’s doorstep it was a very different emotion that went through me.  I instantly took to this small stone ruin of a church. The grass around it was long and wildflowers were growing freely. Nature, if it was not kept at bay, would easily take over.  For an abandoned church it did not have an oppressive feeling, instead it seemed bathed in serenity.  

 

Tucked up on a steep hillside it is a short walk from the parking lot down to the church.

 

Approached from the road the first impression of St Peter's is how plain it is. A rough stone exterior with few windows and a heavy wooden door. There are two sections of the church where the roof is still intact.  The first is in front of you where a baptismal font and a few benches are provided for rest and/or contemplation. This area leads through the porch door to the cemetery.  A corridor to the left leads to a small room where a plaque dedicated to a husband and wife is set into the plastered wall.

 

Wagtails were busy nesting in the square holes left in the walls by missing rafters.

 

The flagstone floor is overgrown by grass and flowers are growing in the walls perhaps from the nesting wagtails or blown there from the sea winds.

Extensive restoration to the double-arched roof is obvious with the new beam's flat machine cut surfaces in sharp contract to the hand sawn originals. St Peter's is one of the more fortunate churches to have retained a large amount of original beautifully hand carved architectural detail. 

They are not, however, the only interesting treats. 

Along the short corridor you can not miss two wooden 'tablets' containing the  Ten Commandments. 




Another interesting object is a recessed pointed arch maybe six inches across and made from different stone than the
 church walls. 

Although St Peter's is no longer used for regular services there are signs it is visited to mark the anniversary of a war or as a quiet place for solace. A memorial wreath rests gently on a window sill, and tucked up in another, someone had fashioned a simple vine cross.  It was lovely to see both tributes.  Nothing fancy, just two acts of love. 

 

 

 

                                       The Cemetery
 

 

I went outside to explore the cemetery.  Meandering along the overgrown footpath I tried to read some of the inscriptions on the surrounding gravestones, but unfortunately most are worn off from exposure to the salt air. There is one stone that is very different for the rest. A carved cross in it's top creates a clover-like silhouette on the wall behind it. I wondered if it's placement against the wall was deliberate to draw attention to the grave. If it were set in the middle of the cemetery the effect would not be as dramatic. 

Wanting to take photos of the cemetery from a more interesting angle I laid down in the path hoping that no one would see me as I wasn't sure how I would explain myself. I remained there for a long time thinking about who these people were and what their lives were like in this little village by the sea. [In my later research I learned that many had passed away during a cholera outbreak in the 1800's].

                            


Rounding the corner to return to the front of the church I discovered a pair of graves enclosed within a wrought iron fence.  One headstone is covered in moss with a snail attached to it and the other enveloped in white and pink flowers. It is quite pretty the way the wildflowers have grown up surrounding the resting place of two souls. Perhaps it is the husband and wife from the  plaque inside of the church?

  

I returned to the interior of the church where the wagtails are not the only birds sheltering within the walls.  A pair of fledging swallows excited chirps are heard as they chased each other around the arches beams.  








It is not often that you get the opportunity to observe these little birds this close. It was like watching siblings rough- house; daring each other to fly higher and faster.  Their abandoned mud nest, about a foot in diameter, just visible in the shadows of the beams.

St Peter's is worth the visit especially to see the interior carvings.  Cathedrals have their ornate screens, tapestries and tombs, but for me it is the small parish church that gives me a feel for the ordinary people who lived in remote places like Revel Cove.
 

History:

Some information regarding the age of this church dates it back to a Saxon origin or as late as the 13th century. It is also possible that this church was built on the site of much older one which is fairly common, this happens due to war, natural disaster or the place has always been considered 'sacred' to Christians or pagans.  Regardless, it has been here a very long time.According to one source I found (GenUKI) the 'first written evidence of the existence [of a church at Revelstoke] does not appear until 1225 when it is mentioned in a charter.'  This means there was a church here during Henry III's (Plantagenant) reign, if that helps you place it in a historical perspective.

The cemetery is much later, and according to the same source, the village was granted permission to bury their dead next to the then, Chapel of St Peter, in the 15th century.

Eventually the church was abandoned for a more convenient church in  Noss Mayo and later a new St Peter's was built in around the 1880's.   

The name Revelstoke quite possibly derives from the wealthy family who owned the land in that area and were the patrons who built the new church St Peter's Revelstoke.  The Chapel of St Peter at some time then became known as St Peter the Poor Fisherman presumably, to distinguish it from the newer church with the same dedication.

It is unfortunate it remained empty for over a century attacked by the elements so that some of the original architecture and detail have been lost.  The good news is that the Churches Conservation Trust is overseeing the care and restoration of this lovely little treasure so, hopefully, this will insure it will be cared for many years to come.

Architecture:

It is a simple church yet there are hints of former grandeur here and there that made me wish I had seen it when it was in its full glory.  Some of the details look similar to Norman design while other areas seem much older.    

 

In trying to determine the origins of St Peter’s I have made a few observations about it’s construction. My thoughts are that it’s present appearance, like many churches and other buildings, has been altered to suit the needs of the parish it served and the changes in tastes/prosperity over it’s existence. I am no expert, but here are my observations:

 Is it Pre-Conquest? (pre 1066)

The walls are thin vertical stone and the arches over the doors both indications of this style.

Is it Norman? (1066)

The thick square tower (unfortunately I have no photograph of this part of the church) is built at the west end of the nave which occurs most often in Norman plans.

Is it Decorated?  (mid-12^th century)

The double-arched braced roof is unique to the Devon district and well developed at the time of the Norman and Early English periods.  The Decorative period was during a time of relative peace allowing carpenters and architects more freedom to add touches of refinement and beauty to the interiors of churches. I include the ‘tracerey’ double and triple windows found at St Peter’s [which developed gradually from the Pre-Conquest two windows separated with a pilaster strip] here as they have the addition of a tympanum and wide width of this style as well.

  Pre-Conquest semi-round doorway.

Wide, tracery triple windows indicative of the Decoration period











 Double-arch braced roof.











The rafters included at St Peter's are four distinct designs: a swirling wave pattern (above), the more traditional Christian themed wheat sheaves [the divine harvest] & oak [strength/eternity] and a much later addition of the Tudor Rose.
   

 

St Peter the Poor Fisherman was one of the highlights of my explorations.  To be able to wander around in complete freedom to photograph the hidden treasures this plain little church holds was a privilege. I hope to someday return for another visit. 

I am pleased that organizations such as The Churches Conservation Trust are finding them and spending the money needed to preserve treasures such St Peter’s.  I wouldn’t want to have someone come in and completely ‘restore’ the church but to conserve it and not let it decay anymore is a wonderful hope for its future.  I have added a link to their organization so that you can join me in helping to preserve St Peter the Poor Fisherman ,and other churches at risk, by donating or becoming a member of the trust. (See 'Links' page)

NEXT UP: the road brings us to an island that was the setting several television and movies. You might recognize the hotel from Agatha Christie's Poirot where dangerous cliffs and hidden caves are the perfect setting for murder...BURGH ISLAND.